History guide
Jacob & Co Billionaire Watch History and Versions
Explore the history behind the Jacob & Co Billionaire watch, understand how its successive versions differ and learn how to identify your specific example with confidence before selling.
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Origins of the Billionaire
Many owners of a Jacob & Co Billionaire watch are collectors who value its uncompromising design and choose to sell when adjusting the direction of their collection or realising value from a truly singular piece.
The Jacob & Co Billionaire watch emerged in the mid-2010s through a collaboration between Jacob Arabo and the American rapper 50 Cent, whose real name is Curtis Jackson. Arabo had spent years refining a style that merged high jewellery with horology, often using diamonds in ways that challenged conventional watch design. The Billionaire took this philosophy further by encasing virtually every visible surface in baguette-cut diamonds, creating a piece that was both a technical achievement and a cultural statement.
Jackson had long been a client of Jacob & Co, drawn to the brand’s fearless approach to gem-setting and its willingness to produce objects that stood apart from traditional Swiss watchmaking. The Billionaire was conceived as a diamond-intensive watch that would still function as a reliable timepiece. The project required close coordination between jewellers and watchmakers.
Upon its unveiling the watch immediately attracted attention for its scale and ambition. It was never positioned as an everyday watch but rather as a rare object for those who collect pieces that redefine categories. The name reflects the extraordinary number of diamonds involved and the rarefied nature of the piece. From the outset it was produced in limited quantities, ensuring each example retained its status as a collector’s item.
Design Philosophy and Technical Foundations
At its core the Billionaire is built on the principle that a watch can be an object of jewellery without compromising its ability to measure time. Jacob & Co used a slim movement so the case could remain as wearable as possible beneath the layers of diamonds. The dial is characteristically set with diamonds rather than opened to show bridges and gears, so the emphasis stays on the stones.
The case is made in a bright white precious metal, chosen for its compatibility with diamond setting and its reflective quality. Every millimetre of the exterior is set with hand-selected baguette-cut diamonds. These stones are cut to precise tolerances so they fit together with almost no visible gaps, creating the illusion of a solid diamond surface. The crown is also fully set.
Lighting plays a critical role in the design. The arrangement of stones was calculated to maximise scintillation when the watch moves, turning the wrist into a constantly shifting field of light. This effect is intentional and distinguishes the Billionaire from simpler diamond-set watches that use round brilliant stones in more conventional pavé settings. The result is a piece that feels architectural as much as ornamental.
Identifying Your Specific Version
Since its introduction the Billionaire has appeared in several distinct executions, each with identifiable characteristics. The original version is defined by its covering of colourless baguette diamonds, and an openworked dial revealing the movement should not be assumed. Stone colour and arrangement can differ between examples, so those details should be taken from the watch rather than assumed from a supposed series.
To determine which example you own, examine the colour, cut and arrangement of the stones on the dial, case and bracelet, and compare them with reliable documented photographs. Bracelet construction should be recorded from the watch itself, rather than matched to a three-row layout or larger stones at the centre of each link.
Coloured stones, if present, should be identified on their own merits, as sapphire accents are not a documented marker of Billionaire editions. Stone positions should be noted as they appear, rather than matched to hour markers or accent rows from an assumed layout. A specialist can check the case, caseback, engravings and movement, though these details do not always confirm a named generation. Owners should note the dial layout, any complications and case markings, without treating skeleton patterns as features tied to particular years.
Comparing your watch against well-documented examples from auction catalogues or official archives can help, although the most reliable method remains careful inspection of the physical details. How the stones meet the bracelet is worth noting, but subtle differences alone do not establish a separate official version.
What an Assessor Examines in Person
In-person assessment of a Jacob & Co Billionaire begins with a thorough evaluation of the diamond setting. Each stone is checked for secure mounting, with particular attention paid to the corners and edges where stress is highest. Even microscopic movement in a single stone can indicate previous impact or improper handling, which affects both structural integrity and long-term value.
The metal surfaces between and beneath the stones are inspected under magnification for scratches, dents or signs of resizing. Because the case is almost entirely covered, these hidden areas often reveal the watch’s true history. The movement is checked for reliable timekeeping, and the crown and setting functions are tested for smooth operation despite the added weight of the diamonds.
Completeness is another key consideration. Assessors look at whether all bracelet links are present and match the original configuration, and whether the clasp functions correctly under the added bulk of the setting. The overall harmony of the stone colours and clarity is evaluated, as variations in hue or transparency across the piece can indicate replacement stones over time. Demand for specific versions often depends on the rarity of the colour combination and the precision of the original setting work.
Documentation, while helpful, is not essential. The physical attributes of the watch itself provide the majority of information needed to reach an accurate assessment. This hands-on process ensures that every factor is taken into account before any offer is finalised.
Storage, Care and Preparation for Sale
Proper storage of a Jacob & Co Billionaire helps preserve both its mechanical function and the condition of its many diamonds. Keep the watch in a dedicated watch box lined with soft material that prevents the stones from rubbing against one another or against harder surfaces. Avoid locations with high humidity or significant temperature fluctuation, as these conditions can affect the lubricants within the movement over long periods.
Because the watch is heavily set with diamonds it is particularly susceptible to catching on clothing or other objects. When not being worn it should remain in its case, preferably the original presentation box if available. This not only protects the piece but also maintains its provenance should you ever wish to provide additional context to a potential buyer.
When preparing to sell there is no requirement to service, clean or polish the watch. The piece should be sent in its current condition, allowing our specialists to evaluate it exactly as it has been kept by the owner. This transparent approach ensures the process is straightforward and that any characteristics, whether signs of careful wear or minor marks, are considered openly and fairly.
Common Pitfalls When Identifying Versions
Many collectors mistakenly group all heavily diamond-set Jacob & Co watches under the Billionaire name. In reality the brand has several other families, including the Astronomia and the Epic line, whose design and complications differ clearly from the Billionaire. The Billionaire is distinguished by its specific case architecture, the near-total use of baguette cuts rather than mixed shapes, and the absence of complications such as flying tourbillons or planetary displays found in other models.
Another common error is treating every diamond-set example as the same reference, when colour and configuration can differ and need to be checked. A two-tone or gradient diamond arrangement should be described as it appears, not assigned to a named limited series without documentation. Differences in colour and stone matching matter to identification and condition, but they do not by themselves prove a separate design campaign.
Clasp design and case thickness are worth recording, but small differences should not by themselves be used to assign a version. A supposed change in clasp-hinge design after 2018 is not a reliable way to date or identify an example. Likewise, changes in the depth of dial skeletonisation are not a reliable way to separate generations of the Billionaire. Relying on photographs alone without examining the markings or weighing the piece can result in confusion, especially when similar models from other brands are also considered.
How to Sell Your Jacob & Co Billionaire Watch to EncoreLuxe
Selling a Jacob & Co Billionaire through EncoreLuxe starts with the valuation form positioned near the top of this page, just below the main image. Upload clear, well-lit photographs showing the front, back, sides, bracelet, clasp, crown and any visible engravings. These images allow our specialists to identify the precise version and assess its overall condition without delay.
Because we operate continuously, most valuations are returned within minutes regardless of the hour or day. The initial offer is based on the photographs and your description; if you choose to proceed we arrange either free collection from your address or fully insured postage using secure carriers experienced with high-value watches. Every step is covered by comprehensive insurance from the moment the watch leaves your hands.
On arrival the watch undergoes a detailed physical examination that confirms it matches the submitted images and verifies the stones and movement. Only after this verification is the sale formally agreed. Payment is then made by bank transfer on the same day, providing immediate settlement. Should any aspect of the in-person assessment lead to a different final offer that you do not accept, the watch is returned to you at our expense, fully insured and with no deduction.
This process is designed specifically for exceptional pieces like the Billionaire. It removes unnecessary friction, respects the complexity of the watch and gives owners complete transparency at every stage. Whether your example is a white-diamond piece or one set with a different stone palette, the same efficient, discreet service applies. There is never any obligation to accept an offer, and the entire experience is managed with the quiet professionalism such a watch deserves.
Frequently asked by sellers
How can I tell which version of the Jacob & Co Billionaire I own? Examine the colour, cut and arrangement of the diamonds, together with the bracelet and case markings, rather than sapphires or an assumed generation.
Do I need the original box and papers to sell my Billionaire watch? No. While welcome, boxes, papers and receipts are not required. High-quality photographs submitted through the valuation form are the essential first step.
What movement powers the Jacob & Co Billionaire? A slim calibre helps the heavily set case remain relatively wearable; a manual-wind skeletonised movement should not be assumed.
How quickly will I receive an offer after submitting photos? Our specialists usually respond within minutes, and the valuation service is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
Are coloured-diamond versions assessed differently? Yes. The specific hues, clarity, matching and setting quality of coloured diamonds form an important part of the in-person evaluation alongside overall condition.
Is the bracelet of every Billionaire fully set with diamonds? In the primary versions the bracelet is extensively set with baguette diamonds to maintain the continuous jewelled appearance across the whole piece.