History guide
Roger Dubuis Excalibur History and References
Explore the history of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur, understand how its generations and main references differ, and learn how to identify the version of your own watch with confidence.
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What Makes the Excalibur Significant
The Excalibur represents one of Roger Dubuis’s most distinctive and technically ambitious collections, known for its bold architecture and exceptional craftsmanship.
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur stands apart through its dramatic star-shaped case, extensive skeleton work and willingness to explore high complications within a recognisable design language. Created by a manufacture that insists on the Poinçon de Genève for every movement, the collection reflects Geneva’s highest standards of finishing and innovation. Its significance lies not only in visual impact but also in the way it has allowed the brand to demonstrate mastery of both traditional techniques and contemporary mechanics.
From its earliest appearances the Excalibur has served as a platform for some of the most inventive watchmaking produced in Geneva. Double tourbillons, openworked chronographs and inventive ways of displaying time have all found a home in this collection. The star-shaped bezel, inspired by the brand’s logo, creates a strong visual signature that collectors immediately recognise, while the openworked dials invite close examination of the movement beneath.
Beyond its technical credentials the Excalibur has helped shape the modern identity of Roger Dubuis. It balances drama with precision, appealing to those who appreciate watches that make a statement without compromising on horological integrity. Its place in the brand’s history is secure as both an aesthetic landmark and a technical proving ground, qualities that continue to define new interpretations today.
The History and Evolution of the Collection
Roger Dubuis established his manufacture in 1995 with a clear ambition to revive the spirit of fine Geneva watchmaking while embracing modern design. Early recognition included finely finished classical round watches, while bolder designs were also part of the brand’s first decade. The Excalibur concept first appeared in 2005, offering a dramatic, star-shaped case that could accommodate complex movements. Its name, drawn from Arthurian legend, suggested strength, purity and exceptional craftsmanship.
The initial Excalibur models emphasised skeletonisation, revealing bridges, gears and finishing rather than concealing the movement. These early pieces established the collection’s architectural language with pronounced angles, open dials and the prominent Roger Dubuis star motif on the bezel. The collection brought together varied calibres and complications, allowing Roger Dubuis to explore new territories while maintaining visual continuity.
By the late 2000s and into the 2010s the Excalibur evolved further. Case sizes were developed further, new materials such as forged carbon and ceramic were introduced, and the technical offering continued to feature tourbillons and other ambitious complications. Each chapter of the collection’s development has built upon the last, creating a lineage that is both coherent and diverse. This evolution reflects the brand’s ongoing desire to combine exceptional finishing with inventive horology, ensuring the Excalibur remains a flagship line around two decades after its introduction.
Throughout its history the collection has also appeared in collaborations and special projects that highlight particular aspects of Roger Dubuis’s expertise. These pieces can explore ideas beyond regular production, showing how the Excalibur functions as both a commercial collection and a showcase for advanced ideas.
Identifying Different Generations and References
Distinguishing between generations of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur requires careful attention to case geometry, dial construction and movement layout. The earliest examples typically feature an angular star-shaped case and a bold profile, though point sharpness and thickness vary too much to date a watch alone. These watches often house openworked movements, and the bridge layout is one of several details used to compare them with later pieces. Later generations revised case details, crown design and finishing, while thickness still depends on the calibre and complication. The specialist checks the case, caseback, engravings and movement.
Movement evolution provides additional identification markers. First-generation calibres are often extensively openworked, leaving relatively few solid surfaces on the bridges and plates. The range includes both hand-wound and automatic calibres, with rotors, where fitted, often shaped to suit an openworked dial. Some references house advanced complications such as double tourbillons, with distinct bridge shapes and finishing patterns visible through the dial and caseback.
Reference numbers follow the manufacture’s own system and should be read with the case, dial and movement, not decoded in isolation. Owners can cross-reference visible features such as the style of applied hour markers, the shape of the hands, the presence of a date display or the design of the crown. Comparing the engraving style and the overall diameter also helps place a watch within its correct generation. Cases are commonly 45 millimetres, with 42 millimetres and larger sizes also found, so a 42 to 44 millimetre rule does not date the watch.
Limited editions add another layer of identification. These often carry unique dial treatments, special materials or specific complication arrangements not found in the core collection. Checking for particular engravings or matching numbers between case and movement can further confirm authenticity and generation. By combining these observations with known catalogue references, an owner can accurately position their Excalibur within the collection’s timeline.
Factors That Influence Condition Assessment
Condition assessment of an Excalibur begins with the case. The star-shaped design creates multiple sharp angles and edges that are vulnerable to knocks and scratches. Even light wear can become noticeable because the facets catch the light differently when polished or abraded. Examiners look closely at the bevels between surfaces and the crispness of the star points to gauge how the watch has been worn and maintained.
The skeletonised dial and movement are particularly sensitive to condition. Dust, minor marks on the bridges or slight discolouration of screws can be highly visible given the open architecture. The quality of the rhodium plating or other surface treatments on the movement plates is another key indicator. Any evidence of previous disassembly or amateur servicing may show in mismatched screws or altered finishing.
Straps, bracelets and buckles also contribute significantly. Original rubber straps often develop cracks or lose flexibility over time, while metal bracelets can show stretch or bracelet link wear. The condition of the deployant clasp, including its engraving and mechanism, receives careful attention. Crystal clarity is equally important; deep scratches or clouding affect both appearance and perceived care.
Overall completeness matters. The presence of all original links in a bracelet, the correct buckle and any fitted accessories help present the watch as it left the manufacture. While minor service history is understandable, major interventions or replacement parts are noted during assessment. Taken together these elements allow a balanced evaluation of how the specific Excalibur has been kept throughout its life.
Elements That Affect How a Watch Is Assessed
Several factors beyond basic condition shape the assessment of any Roger Dubuis Excalibur. The specific reference and its place within the collection’s chronology carry weight. Early examples from the first generation often attract interest for their historical importance, while certain complications or material combinations from later periods may align more closely with current collector preferences. Demand can shift according to how rare or representative a particular configuration is.
Materials influence assessment in practical ways. Precious metal cases require evaluation of surface uniformity and any signs of uneven wear. Ceramic or composite elements, used in some limited editions, are checked for chips, cracks or colour consistency. The interaction between different materials, such as metal with ceramic or carbon elements, is considered for both aesthetic harmony and long-term durability.
The technical specification of the movement also plays a role. Watches housing rarer complications or those with particularly intricate finishing tend to be viewed through a more specialised lens. The functionality of all aspects, including any tourbillon, striking mechanism or calendar function, is verified during inspection. Consistency between the movement’s apparent age and the case helps confirm originality.
Finally, the broader context of the individual watch matters. Whether it has remained in one collection for many years, shows evidence of careful ownership or retains matching numbers can all affect perception. Value depends on condition, completeness, reference and demand. By considering the interplay of these elements, a nuanced and accurate assessment emerges for each unique Excalibur.
Care and Storage Recommendations
Proper care begins with appropriate storage. An Excalibur should be kept in a stable environment with moderate humidity and away from direct sunlight or heat sources. A watch box with individual compartments prevents the star-shaped case from contacting other pieces. When using a winder, select one that accommodates the watch’s weight and offers gentle rotation to maintain power reserve without unnecessary stress on the movement.
Daily handling benefits from simple routines. Wipe the case and crystal with a clean, soft microfibre cloth after wear to remove fingerprints, dust and perspiration. Avoid contact with perfumes, lotions or harsh chemicals that could affect the finish of the case or strap materials. For models with rubber straps, occasional inspection for signs of cracking helps prevent unexpected deterioration.
Longer-term maintenance involves awareness of the movement’s requirements. Although owners are advised to send the watch exactly as it is, noting any changes in winding feel, accuracy or audible performance can be useful information to share when the time comes to sell. Magnetic fields from electronic devices should be avoided, particularly for models with exposed balance wheels or tourbillons.
Periodic professional servicing by qualified technicians familiar with Roger Dubuis movements helps preserve mechanical integrity, but this is best undertaken only when genuinely required. Between services, storing the watch with silica gel packets in a closed case can mitigate humidity effects. These straightforward practices allow an Excalibur to retain its dramatic appearance and technical precision over many years.
Selling Your Roger Dubuis Excalibur Through EncoreLuxe
Deciding to sell a Roger Dubuis Excalibur can feel significant given the watch’s technical and aesthetic importance. EncoreLuxe approaches the process with care and efficiency. The valuation form appears near the top of this page, directly beneath the main image. Upload a complete set of photographs showing the watch from every angle, including the casefront, side profiles that capture the star-shaped geometry, the dial in detail, the caseback with its engravings, the movement where visible, and the bracelet or strap in full. These images allow our specialists to identify the generation, reference family and overall condition accurately.
Thanks to our experience with Roger Dubuis timepieces, an offer is usually delivered within minutes at any time of day or night. The response is based on the specific combination of reference, materials, generation and observed condition. Should the offer meet your expectations, we arrange secure collection from your home or office using fully insured courier services, or provide prepaid postage materials if you prefer to send the watch yourself. Every step is designed to minimise inconvenience while maintaining the highest standards of care.
Upon arrival at our central London premises the Excalibur undergoes thorough verification by our in-house team. This inspection confirms all details visible in the photographs and checks consistency across case, movement and any accompanying elements. Once everything aligns with the preliminary assessment, we confirm the final figure and complete payment by bank transfer on the same day. The entire journey from initial photographs to cleared funds is handled with discretion and respect for the watch’s significance.
If, after physical inspection, any details lead to a revised offer and you decide not to proceed, we return the Excalibur promptly using the same fully insured service at our expense. There are no fees, no obligation and no pressure at any stage. This transparent, efficient route allows owners of Roger Dubuis Excalibur watches to explore a sale with complete confidence, knowing their piece will be handled knowledgeably from the first photograph to the final step.
Common questions before selling
How do the early Excalibur models differ visually from later generations? Early and later models are better separated by case details, reference and calibre than by sharper angles, greater thickness or a mainly manual movement.
Can I receive an offer without original box and papers? Yes. Boxes, papers and accessories are appreciated but not required. High-quality photographs of the watch itself allow us to provide an informed offer quickly.
What aspects of condition matter most for an Excalibur? The crispness of the star-shaped case edges, the state of the skeletonised movement bridges, crystal clarity and the condition of the strap or bracelet are among the primary considerations.
How long does it usually take to receive an initial offer? Our specialists typically respond within minutes, 24 hours a day. The speed reflects the clarity of the photographs and the precision of the details provided.
Is the collection or return of my watch insured? All transportation arranged by EncoreLuxe, whether collection or return after inspection, is fully insured at no cost to the seller.
What happens once my Excalibur reaches your premises? The watch is carefully inspected, any final details are confirmed, and if the sale proceeds, payment is made by bank transfer on the same day.